Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

In my opinion, the permanent rooms at the ground floor, dedicated to the international art, are by far the most intriguing from all the exhibitions. 

The collection from the European artists is considered to be the most significant in South America.

You’ll come across the works of Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn, Auguste Renoir, Wassily WassilyevichKandinsky, Tintoretto, Amedeo Modigliani, Francisco José de Goya and Jean Désiré Gustave Courbet, just to name a few illustrious painters.

Although it was difficult to leave such masterpieces behind, my friend Catalina is completely right: if you come to South America, try to commit more time for South American art, instead the European one.

So I continued to the first floor, where the exhibitions are dedicated to the Argentinean and Latin American painters from the 19^th and 20^th century.

Three works impressed me more than any other:

Desnudo (Mujer oriental) from Severo Rodriguez Etchart 1889. The perfect white skin, the head ornament with gold coins, and her body stretched over oriental fabrics, it all appears extremely exotic. All the hints show, that she is a woman knowing luxury and exotic glamour.

On the same wall, exactly at a hand stretch from Severo Rodriguez Etchart’s painting, is another masterpiece. This belongs to the Argentinean painter, Eduardo Sivori and is named La lever de la bonne (El despertar de la criada). 

Another female body, but this time the muse doesn’t know either glamour or luxury. Her body appears sick, tortured, and her feet, the same who will narrate her life story, are gnarled, ugly and neglected. 

She isn’t a muse, but probably a working-class woman. 

She isn’t idolized, but rather respected for her life story. Still neither her, nor her body will inspire future artists.

Exquisite, how the two paintings sit side by side on the same wall, making you think what the essence of true art is. While Sivori presents a symbol of the Argentinean 19^th century society, a heroine of the working class which sacrifices her personal comfort for the daily existence, Etchart’s muse, is a sensual concubine, a beautiful body without a place either in history or the collective memory.

Angel della Valle’s La Vuelta del Malon, is clearly one of the most remarkable paintings of 19^th century Argentinean art. La Vuelta del Malon has a brutal realism to it, and both: subjects, and the Indian theme have a strong visual impact.

If all these still didn’t impress you, I would recommend a visit at MNBA, because each image there, has its own story…and these are stories worth listening to.

Dining out in the steak capital of the world

I’m neither a gourmand nor a gourmet, and food was never excessively important to me. My only sin is named: sweets. 

Until a couple of months ago, I preferred to go on without food for days, if there was the perspective of an exquisite dessert at the end of the week. Add to this that I belonged to the group of the holly vegetarians for over five years, and you’ll have the image of someone who should definitely feel lost, in a country which favors cow-sized steaks. Luckily people change! 

Since I’ve tried my first steak, and officially ended the: will not touch meat period, can’t stop praising the creativity of the Argentineans when it comes to preparing their parilla.

My first try was at Miranda in Palermo Hollywood (Costa Rica y Fitz Roy), and although each of my porteños friends told me that the choice wasn’t the luckiest one, I was confident that never ever, had I eaten something more juicy and delicious than my first Argentinean steak.

Today I’ve tried a couple of places around town, and to be honest I feel that every steakhouse or family owned restaurant has tender steaks, perfectly flavored…still haven’t decided if you should blame this on the meat, or the Argentinean cooking tehnic. 

One thing I understood in the months lived in Buenos Aires, is that Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood are amazing barrios for shopping and enjoying the crazy nightlife, but when it comes to dining out, the majority of the restaurants here, seem to focus more on dazzling interiors and having a fancy crowd as costumers, than the meals in your plate. 

Don’t get me wrong: food is not bad, but rather too European or too Manhattan like! Still there are some great places for dining out in Palermo; I prefer La Cabrera (Cabrera 5099).

Recoleta has flamboyant restaurants, which clearly have that parisienne allure to them, perfect for international businessmen and bankers. 

The neighborhoods of Caballito and La Boca, hide their own culinary treasures. 

Another of my latest obsessions is named: empanadas, having a clear preference towards the once with cheese or ham. My favorite empanaderia is La Cupertina (Cabrera y Godoy Cruz), which also makes the best tamales.

Note to myself: you need to leave Argentina before you become a frightening carnivore, beef eating, fat monster!

Relax: the porteño style

Just 28 kilometers away from Buenos Aires city, you’ll find an oasis of peace and relax, which is known by all porteños as their ideal weekend getaway.  
Easily reached either by car, train or bus, Tigre is the perfect escape from a hectic day in the big metropolis.

Tigre got its name from the Europeans who discovered the area, and supposedly hunted tigers and jaguars here.

The main touristic attraction is the delta of Rio Parana, and the tourists will surely be fascinated by the image of numerous rivers, canals and little islands. Public transportation is done through boats, exactly like in Venice, Italy, and this only increases the charm of the region.

These small islands, on which Tigre is found today, were created after several floods, when much of the settlements were destroyed. 

The scenic landscapes and magnificent images become easily the best choice, for a quiet family day or a romantic anniversary.

If you’re into outdoor sports: kayaks and sky jets can be rented out from the local travel agents, and if you’re looking for something more adventurous, El Parque de la Costa has crazy roller coasters and other thrill rides; basically, Tigre has something for each of us!

Safety Issues in Buenos Aires

Today, I got from a new expat friend, for the X-time my most hated question: is Buenos Aires, really safe?

Since living in Argentina, all the verbal altercations in which I entered were with other expats; and absolutely all of them, regarded the matter of personal security in Borges beloved city.

Don’t get me wrong, I truly encourage, an intellectual verbal dispute, which is based on true facts or verified information, but if you come and throw around with fake accusations or theories which haven’t been verified, you surely won’t have a good conversation partner in me.

And Yes, I’ve also read those threads with: “Argentina is located in South America, not the safest region in the world”, and before coming here, I’ve even bought into them! But since living in Buenos Aires, I can assure you that either to me or my friends something bad happened. 

No violent crimes, pickpockets or moto robos, and police is present in all public and touristic areas, being extremely friendly and helpful.

To be honest, this is by far one of the safest cities in which I’ve lived so far!

Of course, as in the case of any great metropolis, Buenos Aires also has areas which should be avoided, or visited during day time only. 

I went to La Boca in the evening (more got lost there than visiting), but no one attacked or harmed me in any way. To my great surprise, the locals were extremely nice, and they called me a taxi to go back home (read my post First day in Argentina). 
Still, I’m not a dumb little person, and will recognize that walking around La Boca after sunset was unwise, but can you honestly tell me that your city doesn’t have impoverished neighborhoods or barrios were petty theft is more widely spread?

If it’s 2 AM and you see that two men are following you, why would you walk on an abandoned street? HELLO! You’re not Van Damme and we’re not in a Hollywood Blockbuster! 

It’s the same case as with those girls who dress up super trashy but then they have the courage to complain that men are staring always in their décolletage or they are treated as sex toys. My dear, how could he concentrate on something else than your charms, when everything is out there, in the public eye!

What I’m trying to say is that if you don’t look for trouble and try to act wisely, this city will give you absolutely no headaches in matter of personal security….so please, but really please, stop bugging me with your safety issues!

Secretly hoping that in the future, I won’t have to go back to these questions, here are my answers: 

1. No, nobody attacked me after sunset (not even a vampire, werewolf or other creatures of the night).

2. No one tried to drug me in the club or to rape me (this is by far the dumbest question ever…it should be scientifically proven that too many episodes of NYPD could affect your mental stability).

3. Yes, I use my I-Phone, camera, Blackberry on the street, and no one tried to steal it (funny fact, I became I-phone-less in one of the safest cities in Europe).

4. Haven’t witnessed any street crimes or experienced anything remotely threatening (and believe me, I do stand out as a tourist: with this pale white skin and light brown hair, and an indecipherable accent). 

5. Haven’t been attacked by a gunman in a bar or a boutique (the only ones who are constantly attacking me, are Argentinean admirers asking for my phone number, but that couldn’t pass as a crime nowhere in the world).

6. Didn’t get any counterfeit money.

7. No taxi scams whatsoever. On the contrary, wanted to give an extra 5 pesos to a driver, because he was so helpful, but he refused my money wishing me a pleasant stay.

All I’ve experienced so far was hospitality, welcoming attitude, love for foreigners and politeness. Stay street smart and no need for paranoia.

In the end, it’s probably even a question of luck; I was robbed and got fake Euros, in some of the safest cities in Europe.

Happiness is the new black

I honestly think that it should be prohibited by law to be as happy as I currently am. Even now, that autumn has arrived to the Argentinean capital, and the number of rainy days overcomes the sunny ones, there’s still that summer warmth in my heart. 

After four months of living in the capital of tango, still haven’t found anything slightly disturbing about the city or its lovely, smiley habitants.  Rain or sun, summer or winter, life is sweet as dulce de leche in Buenos Aires.

Sometimes, I walk on the streets, pretending to be angry with the world, just to see if people would respond differently to me, being more aggressive, but all I get in return are lovely smiles, and wonderful words. It’s no secret that my heart is unconditionally and irrevocably in loved with Buenos Aires, and the problem with romantic souls as I, is that it takes an eternity to make us forget those who have managed to get to our heart. Really, don’t want to fall out of love with the Argentinean capital, but on the other hand, I’m afraid that she too, as Rome, will only break my heart while leaving her behind.

Before coming here, I was convinced that the modern times imply no more Affairs to Remember or true Love Stories, but I was wrong; had both an Affair to Remember and a Love Story, while my mind was Gone with the Wind, for a wonderfully amazing city, which made me a better, more positive person.

Buenos Aires is imprinted forever on me.

P.S..: I found it absolutely fantastic that even Diet Coke here, has the logo with Disfrutar tu vida esta’ bueno!

Buenos Aires Moda. 48th Edition. A/W 2011

Buenos Aires Fashion Week just wrapped up, and Buenos Aires Moda opened up! 

It seems that this amazing city is not only one of the most appreciated fashion hubs in South America but also a favorite meeting point for emerging designers, stylists and fashion lovers.

In the last twenty-five years, Buenos Aires Moda launched trends, and presented to the local and international market talented newcomers, who moved rapidly from the minor to the major league in the glittering fashion world.

In the three days packed with fashion shows, the participants also could walk around the showrooms and admire Eco textiles, handmade jewelry, and leather goods. The showrooms are divided according to the sectors and style, they represent.

The New Style section, is a clear don’t miss, being a door to the future, and presenting you the new generation of talented, young designers. They are like a breath of fresh air, so wonderfully welcomed from season to season!