BAF Week Autumn/Winter 2011

You know those lists that you have in your mind as a child, with small lines that indicate specific desires, like a new Barbie, a Matchbox, which later turn into new Manolo’s or Tom Ford dresses, or maybe a Porsche, if you’re a man. Those lists grow bigger with the passing of time…and get more elaborated and expensive.

My list had since forever Fashion Week in pole position, and Buenos Aires Fashion Week was even more appealing than Milan or London, because of the Latin flavor. 

Of course, anyone can argue that in a top of the trendiest capitals in the world, Buenos Aires falls behind. Still, try seeing things in this light: the best gelato in the world can be tasted in Sicily, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t be lucky enough to find an exquisitely delicious one, even in Rio or Frankfurt! 

As I’ve mentioned BAF Week was a blast, and the majority of the designers managed to integrate well the latest trends in their collections (some to a greater extent than others), but that wasn't the only intriguing aspect of the Buenos Aires Fashion Week. I have to recognize that the after parties, and the people who’ve attended those crazy evenings were also absolutely fantastic.

Snooty pseudo-fashionistas, bloggers, journalists, photographers, models and trend seekers, they all met for five days in the Argentinean capital, making you forget for a while about world recession, wars and poverty, and just enjoy: some nights soaked in champagne, couture outfits and the company of some genetically blessed discussion partners.

Really looking forward to the next Fashion Week!

Autumn day in Paradise

I’m in Plaza Armenia on a terrace, watching the couples gravitating around each other, young children playing in the park, and elderly folks moving slowly around the crowded bars. 

This is all I want; this is what I was searching for years: inner peace, the happiness that such a moment could bring to my heart, and the love which floats in the humid autumn air.

When I close my eyes, it’s for the first time in my life, when I realize that I don’t miss anything, I don’t want nothing more than what I already have.

My heart beats slowly here, and my lips take the form of a natural smile (in the past, I thought that would be impossible for someone as me) and my skin feels the touch of the wind, the “bites” of the sunshine, in a different way than ever before. Each time I breathe or exhale, even the air that gets to my lungs has flavor; a South American flavor to it, and it’s finally clear I’M HAPPY, I’M ALIVE FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER.

It’s the mixture of love, freedom and happiness that I searched for every single moment of my life. Buenos Aires made me understand that we all pursue just this mix of emotions. Some find it in the arms of the loved one, some in the smile of a dear friend, some in the nearness of a family member, and some in a magical city.

If I could ask for just one more thing, that would be to remain as thoughtless happy and free as now. 

Finally understood that even when I’ll leave Buenos Aires, a piece of it will remain in a secret hidden place, unknown by anyone else than me- in my heart.

San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo

San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo, or one of my favorite neighborhoods of the city.

Surely you must know that San Telmo is the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires. During the 17^th century this district was inhabited by dockworkers, and now the beautiful colonial houses, are the homes of artists and artisans.

The bohemian air of this Argentinean jewel is kept untainted even today, due to the street artists, antiques vendors, and tango and milonga shows.

Sundays, due to the Feria de San Telmo, Plaza Dorrego, the oldest square in Buenos Aires, is invaded by tourists and locals, who are on the hunt for some bargain shopping. If you decide to venture in this trial, you’ll discover hundreds of street vendors lined up on Calle Defensa, selling anything from jewelry, leather purses and shoes, to silk scarves. It’s a colorful, vivid experience which can’t be missed in your next Buenos Aires trip.

The narrow cobblestone streets are home for some of the best art galleries, antiques shops, cafés and restaurants in the city.

Brasserie Petanque (Calle Defensa 596) located in the heart of San Telmo, is an authentic French Bistrot, which I’m sure, you’ll adore not only for the exquisite cuisine, but also for the crowd.

Each visit to San Telmo is like a journey in time, exceeding unimaginable frontiers, and arriving back in the Colonial days, when the upper classes of the Argentinean society still lived here in peace, not knowing that in 1871 the yellow fever epidemic will hit them hardly.

Carlos Gardel circuit

Although I’m highly allergic to maps and guided tours, there are a couple of itineraries which I wouldn’t miss for anything in this world.

One of those is the Carlos Gardel circuit in Buenos Aires. 

It’s intriguing to walk around his beloved city, continuously finding traces of his legacy, being astonished by how the Zorzal Criollo influenced the life of the Argentinean capital.

Gardel, exactly as Jorge Luis Borge, is a legend in Buenos Aires, and sometimes, while having a drink in Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825); you might have the impression that he is present not only in spirit but also physically. Café Tortoni is the oldest bar in Buenos Aires, and during the Roaring Twenties, this was the meeting place for the bohemians, intellectuals and artists; a place much adored by Gardel himself.

The next stop of the tour was Palais de Glace (Posadas 1725), where again my mind was transported back in the twenties. Imagining a dashing Gardel, surrounded by sensual Flappers, or dancing the night away with some glamorous divine female. 

From there we went on to the Hipodromo Argentino (Avenida del Libertador 4101). Gardel’s love for the horses was not a secret during his lifetime, so this beautiful Belle Epoque building has to be a stop on your route.

Bring to an end your time trip with a visit to Carlos Gardel House-Museum (Jean Jaures 735) where the bon vivant has lived. There you can admire photographs and documents which belonged or feature the great Gardel.